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What did Cleopatra really look like?

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What did Cleopatra really look like?


Portrait of Cleopatra
David A. Claerr
© 2007 David A. Claerr


Cleopatra is certainly one of the most intriguing figures in the pageantry of earth's history, and an iconic inspiration in works of art, literature and film for centuries. But can we determine with a moderate degree of accuracy what she really looked like?

As a well documented and popular historical figure, there are numerous sculptures and bas-reliefs from artists of Cleopatra's time, Egyptian, Greek and Roman. The Egyptian sculptured portraits tend to be highly stylized. The Greco-Roman sculptures are more representational and realistic with slight variances of artistic style and idealization, but they are nonetheless clearly depicting the same person. (link to sculpture image)

As a consort of Julius Caesar, with whom she bore a son, she was honored as a goddess. Caesar commissioned a gold statue of Cleopatra, which he had displayed in the temple of Venus Genetrix in Rome.( There are possibly two marble copies of this statue still in existence). After Caesar was assassinated, public opinion turned against Cleopatra and many of her likenesses were removed or destroyed.

But Cleopatra's involvement with the Roman political scene were not yet over. She began a relationship with Marc Antony, Caesar's loyal friend and ally. In the course of their lives together as de-facto husband and wife, they toured the Mediterranean countries in times of peace. On one of their trips to Greece, Antony commissioned a famous Greek painter, Timomachus, to paint her portrait.

The Greeks of the Classical era had developed a painting technique that was incredibly durable, with a smooth, polished finish and colors that were highly resistant to fading. The technique, called encaustic (from the Greek for "heated") involved the combination of tree-resins and beeswax in a heated mixture. Ground mineral pigments were added to the mixture. The colors were applied to a moderately heated slab of smoothly finished grey slate rock with a brass spatula. It took great skill to apply the colors and probably required several assistants in a specially designed workshop to produce the works of art. For this reason, there were relatively few artists working in encaustic, and only the wealthiest could afford a painting of this type. (There was also another type of painting involving heated wax that was considerably easier.) The final piece was cooled and then given a glossy, melded surface by passing a red-hot iron bar or a brazier of glowing charcoal over the surface.

After Julius Caesar's death, a power struggle ensued in Rome. In time, a conflict developed between the armies of Octavian, the nephew of Julius Caesar, and the Egyptian forces led by Marc Antony and Cleopatra. Octavian eventually triumphed over Antony and Cleopatra. After a decisive defeat,  Antony committed suicide after he was informed, incorrectly, that Cleopatra had been killed. Cleopatra rushed to him and he died in her arms. Octavian, who later took the title of Caesar Augustus, marched into the city of Alexandria and captured Cleopatra and put her under house arrest with guards watching her closely.

After funeral rites for Marc Antony, Cleopatra devised a plan to follow him in death. She arranged for a servant to bring a basket of figs, in which a deadly poisonous serpent was hidden. After arraying herself in her finest garments and royal jewels, she calmly ate the figs until the fatal bite of the serpent. She then reclined on her ornate couch, her faithful servant adjusting her crown and necklace before she herself expired. Cleopatra thus avoided the humiliation of being marched through the streets of Rome in chains as part of Octavian's victory parade, as was the Roman tradition.

Octavian was livid, having been tricked and losing the opportunity to display Cleopatra to Rome. He later had an idea: he would commission Timomachus, the same artist that painted Cleopatra for Antony, to paint a portrait of Cleopatra at the moment of her death. The finished portrait, in the encaustic technique, was mounted on a cart that was drawn slowly along the route of the victory parade. It caused a sensation and was viewed by thousands. Later, Octavian had it placed in the Temple of Venus Genetrix as an offering where it was kept on public display for many years. A century later, the Emperor Hadrian acquired it for his extensive art collection that was housed at his villa in Tivoli, outside of Rome.

The painting, at some time after Hadrian death, was place in a wooden crate and hidden in a cellar at Hadrian's Villa. It lay hidden and forgotten until 1818 when it was re-discovered in a lot of scrap lumber. The painting, broken into 14 pieces, was painstakingly reassembled. ( For a detailed article on the painting, please click this link)

The image accompanying this article was created by 3D computer modeling techniques combined with digital illustration. The image is based on the Greco-Roman sculptures of Cleopatra, antique engravings of Octavian's Portrait of Cleopatra, and detailed eye-witness descriptions from writers, artists and reporters who viewed the painting when it toured Europe in the 19th century.

For many readers, it is a surprising fact that Cleopatra was not of Egyptian descent. She was actually ethnically Macedonian, as were the twelve generations of rulers before her. The royal lineage of Cleopatra's forebears was established by Ptolemy, a Macedonian General under Alexander the Great. (He was also Alexander's boyhood friend.) Ptolemy was given charge of Egypt after Alexander conquered it, and was instrumental in the foundation of the city of Alexandria, which was made the new capitol of Egypt. Ptolemy ousted members of the ancient lineage of Egyptian Pharaohs and founded his own ruling class, which was comprised mainly of Macedonian and Greek colonists.

Cleopatra, as depicted in Octvavian's portrait, is shown to have dark blonde or auburn-tinted hair and deep blue eyes. Alexander the Great also had blonde hair and blue eyes, as do many Macedonians to this day. (Macedonia is to the north of the Grecian coast, and Alexander conquered the people of the Greek city-states that were ethnically quite different than those of his Macedonian homeland. Macedonia at the time had a distinct culture and language- they were considered by coastal Greeks as outsiders.) The stories of Cleopatra's cosmetic recipes and beauty regimens to maintain her fair complexion, abundant, lustrous hair, and shapely figure are borne out by this portrait. (The unflattering coins minted during her reign were most likely clumsily reworked images of her father Ptolmey XII, and previous rulers.) Accounts by Appian and Dio Cassius attest to her beauty.

There are many original and intriguing elements in Cleopatra's arraignments that attest to the portrait's authenticity. The crown she wears is in the style of the ancient Macedonians. It is inlaid with emeralds and rubies and has fine pearls between the points of the gold crown. The diadem on her forehead, the pendant earrings, and the necklace all match the style and design of the crown. The diadem is suspended by a fine gold chain that surrounds her head. The earrings are inlaid with rubies and surrounded by pearls. The necklace is particularly interesting in that the individual segments appear to be Egyptian-style cartouches, which are oblong shapes in which hieroglyphics are embossed. Jewels also are inlaid in the cartouches as part of the design, which is highly unusual. Pearl are mounted on the edges of the cartouches, in the same manner as those on the earrings and diadem.

Cleopatra wears an armband, also inlaid with emeralds and rubies, which has large pearls suspended from chains of gold. (A nearly identical armband was discovered by Heinrich Shlielmann during his excavation of Troy, many years after the encaustic painting was found.) Bracelets of twisted gold adorn her wrist.

The hairstyle of Cleopatra has several remarkable elements. The hair, which is arranged in very elaborate braids and decorative knots, is obviously very long, as if it had seldom if ever been cut. The hair texture is of the type that grows in spiraling coils. A unique feature of the styling was that gold dust was sprinkled on the braids and even on Cleopatra's eyebrows! The ends of the very long braids encircle her neck and end in a twined knot into which are inserted three fresh roses that match the color of her fine tunic of silk. The tunic itself has notable elements - the fastening at the shoulders by the tying iof stylish rosette bows and the apparent lack of seams or stitching. The tunic is designed in the Greco-Roman style of the era.

Cleopatra was remarkable for more than her looks. Even the Roman orator, Cicero, who disliked her intensely for having been snubbed by her at a dinner reception, grudgingly admitted that she was very intelligent and pointed out that could speak nine languages, including Egyptian, which no ruling Ptolemy had before her. He even mentioned that fact that Cleopatra had the desire to establish a harmonious relationship between the ruling classes and subjects of the Roman Empire. Some regarded Cleopatra as being not necessarily the most beautiful woman of the age, but a pretty and very engaging conversationalist with a melodious voice and a charming, persuasive manner. Remember that both Julius Caesar and Marc Antony, two of the most powerful men of the era, were enamored of Cleopatra to the point where they risked the disapproval of the citizens of Rome to continue in their relationships with her, since they were both married men.

Resources:


Online Image:
(1) https://oncourse.iu.edu/access/content/user/leach/www/2003/cleopatra.jpg (Cleopatra VII from the Antiken Museum of Berlin)



Print Media:
Illustrations:

"Cleopatra -engraving in steel after the Encaustic Painting of Sorrento" . John Sartain (c.1880) illustration for "On the Antique Painting in Encaustic or Cleopatra discovered in 1818" by John Sartain, Cosimo Ridolfi & Reinhold Shoener

"Cleopatra" John Shury (c.1826) engraving in "The Saturday Magazine" Vol. V, London 1841

Books and Articles:

"On the Antique Painting in Encaustic of Cleopatra Discovered in 1818" by John Sartain, Cosimo Ridolfi & Reinhold Shoener
{Publisher: George Gebbie & Co. Philadelphia 1885}

"London Magazine" May 1 1826. Article by John Scott, John Taylor . Illustration by John Shury

"The New York Times", August 21, 1881

"The Saturday Magazine" Vol. V London 1841

"Dictionary of Greek and Roman Antiquities" edited William Smith (1870).

"Plutarch's Parallel Lives" (1916) translated by B. Perrin

Dio Cassius: Roman History" (1916) translated by Earnest Cary and Herbert B. Foster (Loeb Classical Library)

"Appian: The Civil Wars" (1996) translated by John Carter (Penguin Classics)








 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

All images on this website © 2007 David A. Claerr

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Last modified: 06/09/08